A little RV Humor Today.
I am not so sure the owner would agree though
HAVE A SAFE AND BLESSED DAY
Tuesday, April 30, 2024
Thursday, April 25, 2024
RV PARK in Decatur, TX - COME HEAR THE PEACEFUL SOUNDS HERE - MIMOSA VALLEY RV PARK
Turn your sound on to hear the birds chirping.
Also notice that you CANNOT hear traffic noise.
All this and only a mile and a half outside city limits!
Click this link below for the video/pix with sound on
(note: this is after a tree tim last year. They will be prettier this spring)
Tuesday, April 23, 2024
RV Guide | RV Terms and Definitions - RV Park in Decatur TX - MIMOSA VALLEY RV PARK
Before starting your RV search, it’s time to brush up on your RV vocabulary! Learn the meanings of common RV terms frequently used on forums and blogs.
We’ve provided definitions for each term and provided examples, where applicable. After reading this guide, you’ll be ready to decipher shorthand descriptions and navigate RV owner groups with ease!
A TO Z GLOSSARY
RV Terms & Definitions
- 4-Pin Electrical Connector: This provides power from your tow vehicle to your RV for the lights only.
- 7-Pin Electrical Connector: This provides power from your tow vehicle to your RV for the lights as well as the electrically operated brakes.
- A/C: shorthand for air conditioner.
- Aluminum Exterior Sidewalls: This term refers to the outside construction of your RV. It consists of a wooden framing with an aluminum exterior and batten insulation.
- Auxiliary Battery: An extra battery to run your 12-volt equipment.
- Back-up monitor: A camera mounted on the back of the RV that provides the driver with an extra eye when backing up the RV; back-up monitors are typically in-dash by the driver’s seat.
- Basement: The large storage area underneath your RV’s floor accessible from outside storage doors.
- Black Water Capacity: The amount of waste water from the toilet that your RV’s black water tank can hold.
- Booth Dinette: Dining area with bench seats on opposite sides and a table in-between. Many RVs have booth dinettes that convert to an extra sleeping space.
- Brake Controller: A device mounted inside the tow vehicle that will apply the trailer brakes simultaneously when the tow vehicle brakes.
- Breakaway Switch: A safety switch that will automatically activate the brakes on the trailer if your trailer becomes separated from the tow vehicle.
- BTU (British Thermal Unit): It’s a measurement of heat; the quantity required to raise the temperature of one pound of water 1 degree F. RV air conditioning and furnace units are BTU-rated.
- Bunkhouse: Refers to the floorplan style of an RV that has bunk beds.
- CCC (Cargo Carrying Capacity): The maximum weight limit for personal items you can add to an RV.
- Chassis: It’s the framework your RV is built upon. In motorhomes, the chassis generally includes the engine and transmission.
- Chassis Battery: The battery in your motorhome that operates 12 volt components of the drivetrain.
- Cockpit: Front of your motorhome where the driver pilot seat and passenger co-pilot seats are located.
- Control Panel: A panel where you can control and adjust the RV’s systems for climate, water, and power. Many modern RVs include touchscreen panels and/or apps for ease of use.
- Converter: Converts 120 volt AC power to 12 volt DC power and also charges your 12 volt battery.
- Diesel Puller – FRED (or Front Engine Diesel): Refers to diesel motorhomes with engine located in the front of the RV.
- Diesel Pusher: Refers to diesel motorhome with engine located in the rear of the RV. The engine location helps push the RV down the road and provides a smoother, quieter ride.
- Dinghy: A vehicle towed behind an RV; also called a “toad” occasionally.
- Dry Weight: The weight of the RV as it comes off the assembly line. Doesn’t include supplies, water, fuel, or passenger weights. Manufacturers weigh each RV and apply a sticker listing the dry weight prior to shipping.
- DSI Ignition – Direct Spark Ignition: Used to describe the method of igniting the main burner on a propane fired appliance.
- Ducted A/C: Describes an RV wherein air conditioning is supplied through ducts in the ceiling and vents throughout the RV.
- Ducted Heat: Describes an RV wherein heat is supplied through ducts in the floor and vents throughout the RV.
- Dump Station: Refers to a location where you can safely and legally dump your black and gray water tanks. Typically, a concrete pad with a tank underneath the ground.
- Enclosed/Sealed Underbelly: This term describes an RV whose bottom surface has been closed shut or insulated to help protect against temperature changes.
- Engine: Provides power to your motorhome, can be diesel or gas-powered.
- Free Standing Dinette: Dining area with individual chairs and a table in-between.
- Fresh Water Capacity: The amount of drinkable water an RV’s fresh water tank can hold.
- Front Galley: A type of floorplan with the kitchen located in the front section of the RV.
- Front Living: A type of floorplan with the living room located in the front section of the RV.
- Front Sleeping: A type of floorplan with the master bedroom located in the front section of the RV.
- Fuel Type: Type of fuel a motorhome uses, either gas or diesel.
- Full Hookup: RV term that describes a campsite that offers a water supply, sewer/septic, and electricity.
- Full-timers: People who live in their RV year round.
- Galley: Another term referring to the kitchen of an RV.
- GAWR (Gross Axle Weight Rating): This is the total allowable weight on each individual axle, which includes the weight of tires, wheels, brakes, and the axle itself.
- GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating): This is the total allowable weight of the tow vehicle, trailer, all cargo in each, hitching, fluids, and occupants.
- Generator: Provides 120-volt AC power to an RV. Generators can run on gas, diesel, or propane.
- Gray Water Capacity: The amount of used water from the kitchen sink, bathroom sink or shower that an RV’s gray water tank can hold.
- GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating): The maximum weight an RV must not exceed to ensure safe traveling. Includes the vehicle’s chassis, body, engine, fluids, fuel, accessories, passengers, cargo, etc.
- Height: Top to bottom measurement of an RV.
- Hitch (or receiver hitch): The connection between a tow vehicle and an RV.
- Hitch Capacity: The towing capacity of the receiver hitch, measured in pounds.
- Holding Tanks: Term that refers to an RV’s fresh water tank, gray water tank, and black water tank.
- House Battery: The battery in a motorhome that operates the 12-volt electrical system within the motorhome.
- Interior Height: Floor to ceiling measurement inside an RV.
- Inverter: Converts 12 volt DC power to 110 volt AC power.
- King Pin Weight (or Pin Weight): The actual weight pressing down on the fifth wheel hitch by the trailer. Generally, the recommended amount of King Pin Weight is 15% – 25% of the gross trailer weight (GTW).
- Laminated Walls: This term refers to the outside wall construction of an RV. Traditionally, this consists of an aluminum frame, styrofoam, fiberglass sheeting treated with a gel-coat, and then laminated.
- Length: Front bumper to back bumper measurement of an RV.
- Leveling Jacks: Equipment used to make sure an RV sits level on the ground.
- Loft Bed: A type of sleeping space where the bed is on a raised platform above another room or multi-use area. Most often found in fifth wheel or travel trailer RV types.
- LP Gas: Liquid Petroleum, another term for Propane
- Park Model: A specific type of RV that is designed to be permanently parked in one area.
- Part-timers: Term used to describe people who travel and use an RV for more than the occasional vacation but do not live in their RV full-time.
- Rear Kitchen: A type of floorplan with the kitchen located at the back of the RV.
- Rear Living: This term describes an RV floorplan with the living room located at the rear of the coach.
- Rear Sleeping: A type of floorplan with the master bedroom located at the rear of the RV.
- Sleeping Capacity: The number of sleeping spaces in an RV. There are several different types of sleeping arrangements available. Examples include standard queen and king size beds, hide-a-bed or jack-knife sofa beds, convertible booth dinettes, fixed bunk beds, and drop-down bunks.
- Slide-outs: Expanding walls or sections of an RV. Slide-outs create additional living area within the RV.
- Sway Bar System: Equipment designed to reduce or eliminate side-to-side sway movement of a towable RV.
- Toad: A vehicle towed behind an RV; also called a “dinghy” occasionally.
- Tongue Weight: The actual weight pressing down on the hitch ball located on the tow vehicle. Generally, tongue weight is 10% to 15% of the gross vehicle weight (GVW).
- Tow Rating: The maximum weight a tow vehicle can safely tow, determined by the vehicle manufacturer. Consult the vehicle manufacturer or use a towing guide to find out the towing capacity of a particular vehicle.
- Underbelly: Term used to describe the bottom surface of an RV; similar to undercarriage.
- Weekenders: RV owners who travel and use an RV primarily on weekends throughout the year.
- Weight Distribution System: Transfers the weight from the tongue of the trailer and redistributes it to the front of the tow vehicle.
- Wheel Base: The distance between the center lines of the primary axles on an RV.
- Width: The side to side measurement of an RV (doesn’t include the added width of extended slide-outs)
MIMOSA VALLEY RV PARK
- Decatur TX Texas -
Best Kept Secret in Wise County!
Monday, April 22, 2024
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Saturday, April 20, 2024
7 Things You Need To Know About Propane Safety - MIMOSA VALLEY RV PARK (RV Park Decatur Texas TX)
Important Propane Safety Tips For RVers
It’s hard to find anyone who doesn’t use propane as part of their RV experience. Propane gets used in RVs for cooking, refrigeration, and heating. Outside of the RV, propane has a host of other uses like firing up the barbecue or propane fireplace. The use of propane is so common, it’s easy for RVers to take propane safety for granted.
Propane is a colorless, odorless gas that is compressed into a liquid. Since propane is a highly noxious gas that can kill quickly if a leak goes undetected, gas companies add a rotten egg smell to it. This smell helps us detect propane leaks before they can poison us. When handled correctly, propane is a stable, safe, and convenient fuel.
1. Know what to do if you smell gas.
If you already smell the rotten egg smell of a propane leak in your RV, here’s what you should do:
- Extinguish all flames and turn off indoor valves like the one on your stove.
- Turn the propane cylinder valve off.
- Leave the area of the leak immediately.
- Be aware that propane is heavier than the air we breathe. Being closer to the ground, children and pets are more vulnerable to propane’s toxic effects than adults.
2. Always store and transport propane tanks secured in an upright position.
In its compressed liquid state, propane is stored in metal propane cylinders. All propane cylinders are designed with a safety relief valve that will cause propane to leak out if the liquid propane inside comes into contact with the valve. This leaked propane vaporizes immediately and the resulting vapors could either ignite or cause propane toxicity.
Secure your tanks for use and transport them using the harnesses that come with your rig. If you need to take portable tanks in for a fill-up, secure them in the back of your pick-up truck using a milk crate, tie-downs, or a propane stabilizer.
3. Store and transport propane outdoors.
Don’t store or transport propane tanks inside your RV or your vehicle. If you have to take them for a refill, transport your propane tanks secured in the back of a pickup truck. This is for two reasons:
- If there is a propane leak inside your vehicle, you could die or be trapped in a fiery inferno.
- If you are in an accident and firefighters attend, they will be focused on getting you and your family out of your vehicle. They’ll be using all the tools they need to do that. If they don’t suspect there is a propane tank inside your vehicle, a spark from a metal cutting tool could be disastrous.
Propane-related accidents can be catastrophic and are avoidable. Make sure you are on a safe route by planning your travels with RV LIFE Trip Wizard; you can simply select propane and RV-friendly routing options under the Routing & Driving tab to be automatically routed around tunnels that prohibit propane.
4. Keep propane valves turned off during travel.
One of the most hotly contested topics among RVers is whether you should run the fridge on propane during travel. On one side, there are RVers who passionately say they do it all the time without issue. On the other side, there are some RVers who don’t want to risk it all for keeping their food and beverages cold.
The fact is, when we are traveling on highways and gravel roads with our rigs, they are subjected to shaking that can be equivalent to that of an earthquake. The parts of the propane system that make it function can theoretically be damaged during movement. All it takes is a small spark or your RV refrigerator’s flame and you could be standing by the side of a highway, inhaling the carcinogenic fumes of your burning RV or worse.
The trick to avoiding this ugly and unexpected scene is to simply keep your propane valves turned off during travel. Your RV fridge is designed to keep its contents cold for a few hours even if it’s off. For longer trips, you can always store cold food and beverages in a cooler, and then store them in the RV fridge when you get where you are going.
5. Keep propane cylinders cool.
Keep propane cylinders in a cool place. Don’t expose them to heat above 120 degrees F. At 120 degrees, propane can start leaking or even combust.
On really hot days, it won’t hurt to use Reflectix, aluminum shade cloth, or even ice to help keep your propane tanks cool. Given the high flammability of propane, it’s a good idea to always keep propane cylinders away from flames.
6. Propane cylinders should be replaced when necessary.
Propane cylinders have a useful lifespan of 10 years in Canada or 12 years in the USA. There is a stamp on the collar of the tank that will give you the date of manufacture so you can tell how old it is.
In addition, propane cylinders should be carefully checked for excessive rust, corrosion, and wear and tear. Out of date or worn out propane cylinders can often be returned to anywhere that sells propane.
7. Inspect valves and hoses and regulators for leaks frequently.
Your entire propane system should be inspected at least once per year. It’s best to get a certified RV technician to do this, but there are a few components close to the cylinder that you can easily check yourself and swap out if necessary. You can easily check them by spraying soapy water on them and watching for bubbles. by
RV BASICS
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