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The cold season is here, and let’s face it—frozen RV pipes are a hassle nobody wants. Some RVers stash their rigs for winter or flee to warmer climates. But if you’re looking to brave the cold and want to know how to prevent RV pipes from freezing, you’re in the right place. We’ve got the top strategies to protect your RV’s plumbing system from Old Man Winter.
Space heaters are a smart choice for keeping the interior of your camper warm, especially since many campgrounds include electricity in their fees. However, they won’t do much for your RV’s water system. Most RVs have furnace ductwork running close to the water lines and tanks. When you run the furnace, this ductwork channels hot air directly to those crucial areas, preventing them from freezing.
So, if temperatures are below freezing, you’ll want to run your RV furnace in addition to, or instead of, your space heaters. Even running it on a low setting can make a big difference in keeping those water lines and tanks from turning into ice blocks. This holds true whether your RV has an enclosed underbelly or not.
Don’t want to run the furnace constantly? Another option is to work to keep the underbelly of the RV heated another way. This option can also be used in conjunction with the RV furnace should you find yourself in extremely cold temperatures.
Not sure how to heat the underbelly? Some people do this by putting a work lamp or two under the rig. This keeps things rather toasty and thawed. You could possibly also use small space heaters under the RV. Just be sure whatever you choose can be used safely outdoors and in rain and snow.
Some RVs come equipped with tank heaters. If your RV doesn’t have this feature and you will be camping in the winter, you might want to consider investing in some.
As you might have guessed, tank heaters attach to the RV holding tanks and ensure everything stays warm enough to avoid freezing.
Adding a skirt to your RV is a must for trapping heat around your water lines and tanks. It’s a twofer: you prevent pipes from freezing and get the bonus of warmer feet inside your RV.
When it comes to materials, you’ve got options, but they’re not all created equal. Here’s the breakdown:
If you plan to continue moving through the winter months rather than staying in one place, an easily removable skirt is necessary. In this case, we recommend inflatable AirSkirts or custom vinyl EZ Snap skirting.
Another way to keep heat near your water lines? Insulate your storage bays! RV storage bays often are not well insulated, meaning you will lose a lot of heat through those little compartments.
The video below is a great example of how to insulate your storage bays to prevent heat loss.
If you’re going through a particularly cold spell, you might consider running space heaters in addition to the furnace and then opening cabinet doors (especially those under sinks). This helps the warm air from inside the camper reach the water lines and pipes that run through the walls and cabinets and under the sink.
We usually open our cabinet doors before bed if it will be below freezing for more than an hour or two during the night.
Keeping your tanks and water lines warm is a great start, and it will protect your plumbing system from damage. That said, if you want to keep the water running while camping in the winter, you will also want to use a heated fresh water hose or wrap your current hose in heat tape.
A heated hose stays nice and warm even when the weather outside is frightful, so you won’t have to worry about water freezing on its way into your home on wheels.
If you want to save a few dollars, you can build a heated hose yourself with material found at most big box stores or online, of course.
Another option? Fill the fresh water tank, detach the fresh water hose, and count on your underbelly heating methods, tank heaters, and skirting to keep everything thawed out.
Another hose you don’t want to freeze is the sewer hose. If this happens and you don’t notice, you’ll likely end up with an overflowing tank of water that has nowhere to go but on your RV floor. For this reason, you will definitely want to leave both waste tanks closed until you need to empty them and then close them as soon as you are finished dumping.
Our final suggestion is to go ahead and winterize the RV water system. Blow out the water lines or fill them with RV antifreeze. Dump some antifreeze in the tanks, and then count on bottled water to get you through your winter camping trips. (Personally, we’ve had decent success with getting some gallon water jugs from the store and refilling them at Walmarts and other places with refill machines.)
This might make things less convenient, but it’s a surefire way to protect your RV’s water system no matter how cold it gets outside.
In conclusion, if you’re determined to conquer winter RVing, protecting your water system from freezing temperatures is non-negotiable. From running your RV furnace to considering a DIY heated hose, you have a gamut of strategies at your disposal. Whether you opt for tank heaters or traditional skirting, the goal remains the same: ensuring your RV’s plumbing survives the winter chill intact. If you mix and match these methods effectively, not even Old Man Winter will deter your adventurous spirit. So, don your thermal socks and keep on camping—the frosty air is no match for a well-prepared RVer.
All of the above are merely suggestions, not guarantees.
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While we come from a family of carpenters, we ourselves aren’t truly handy. Coming up on three years of RV ownership, however, has really changed that self-perspective.
As an RV owner, being able to maintain a budget and still accomplish the occasional motorhome repairs is important. Anyone will tell you this who has owned an RV for any length of time!
When we sold our stick-and-bricks home, deciding which tools we needed to keep was a key factor in downsizing for the rig. Unlike many RVs, we have a single storage bay. Fortunately, we have a toy hauler, so that allows us to keep camp chairs and other bulky items inside the rig.
We opted to keep most of our small Ryobi cordless tools (drill, impact driver, etc.) as well as all the wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, and the hammer. Along the way, other tools have crept back in, too. They have come in handy for these light RV repairs as well as other small maintenance tasks.
This job falls not only under easy motorhome repairs but also routine RV maintenance. Check your seals! They’re everywhere on an RV: at the window frames, between any sheets of metal, between the sink and cabinet, all over!
A caulking gun is fairly light, and you can pick up the correct types of caulk at any hardware store across the country as needed. We always carry one unopened tube of silicon caulking at all times. Before re-applying new caulking, always remove the old substance and clean the area well with appropriate products to ensure the new stuff sticks and seals.
You can also place about a quarter inch of blue painter’s tape on either side of where the caulking will go before putting down your bead. After you use your finger to smear the bead to make a smooth surface, carefully remove the painter’s tape. This will reduce the spread of the caulking and keep your seals clean and attractive.
While we’re on this subject, it’s even more important to regularly check the seals on your RV’s roof. There are vents, fans, antenna mounts, wire passthroughs, and more that are probably watertight with lap sealant. If you have solar panels, it’s likely the angle bracket mounts for them also have sealant at the screw holes. There are many different types of RV roofing materials; always check with your manufacturer for the right lap sealant to use.
Please note: Lap sealant isn’t typical caulking. You will probably need to acquire caulking from an RV supply store or order online. Best to have a tube or two of this on hand before you need it.
While this might sound simple, it too falls under maintenance and can prevent a greater problem. Walk around your rig and have a screwdriver (not a drill) with a square bit on it and a ladder. You’ll be surprised how many screws there are! (You may or may not be surprised at how many are loose.)
While doing something else, we noticed some loose screws. On just one side of our 44’ rig, we had 28 loose (or completely missing) screws! We recommend a screwdriver instead of a drill so that you can be sure not to overtighten anything.
Replacing torn screens is one of the easiest motorhome repairs. Screen material is easy to acquire and install. You’ll need that as well as a screen roller tool.
After removing the old screen, use a marker to create an outline of the same shape. Cut it out with simple scissors (if you bought plastic screening), then use the roller tool to replace the rubber gasket and screen back into the frame. It takes a little practice, but after you’ve done it once, it’s fairly easy to do the remaining times.
Some power issues are also easy motorhome repairs, but they require a diagnosis. Many times, the problem is simply a blown DC fuse or a tripped AC breaker, or possibly even a tripped GFCI, which might just require pressing the Reset button on your primary GFCI outlet.
In the case of fuses, most modern fuses allow you to visually inspect the fuse for burnout. Simply replace that fuse with another of the same amperage. Resetting a breaker involves flipping it all the way off, then back on again.
If you continue to blow the same fuse or trip the same breaker repeatedly, you have a larger problem such as a bad appliance or wiring that is worn down (usually against metal) or even gnawed at by rodents. In those cases, it is best to have a licensed electrician or RV tech resolve the issue. Continuing to replace fuses or resetting breakers can easily lead to fires, as a short circuit generates heat.
Most modern RVs use LED lights for inside illumination. Most of them are built the same way, too. They have two spring clips on the side that (much like a mouse trap, watch your fingers) are squeezed into an upright position, placed inside the hole in your ceiling, and then released to secure them in place.
Removing those lights is simply a matter of pulling them down (or carefully prying them out). As you do this, you’ll meet resistance while you’re bringing the springs into a more upright position. When you get the light loose enough, it will come out, but watch your fingers.
Once you wiggle the light fixture down, ensure your fingers are on the opposite sides from the springs! Then just label the wires if necessary for positive and negative and remove them from the light. Attach the new light to the wires, squeeze the springs, and put it back into the ceiling.
This one comes from experience. Our RV has a three-zone stereo system. It has about eight speakers mounted in the ceiling. On two separate occasions, we’ve arrived at our campsite to find that one of the speakers had fallen from the hole and was dangling by the wires.
To keep weight down, most RV ceilings are built of a very thin particle board. A screw that wiggles repeatedly will eat away at that particle board. If the speaker is tightly fit, you might never notice. If the hole it is mounted in is wonky, a single loose screw may cause the entire thing to fall out, combined with the repeated earthquakes that RV relocation causes.
Remove all the screws from the speaker. Where the screw holes are in the particle board, put U nuts in place, and carefully re-mount the speaker with its screws. We say “carefully” because you might have to adjust the placement slightly as you add each screw. The two speakers we’ve done this repair to have not fallen since! There may also be many other uses for these in an RV.
Nine times out of ten, a badly running sink faucet is because the washer has become dislodged or is just old, or the tiny mesh screen inside the head is clogged or even rusty.
Sometimes a plastic or wire brush can remove or dislodge the debris or buildup. If not, removing the washer and screen from a faucet is usually a matter of unscrewing the small end cap.
If the faucet is leaking, replace the rubber washer and ensure a tight fit when replacing. If the faucet is spraying when it shouldn’t or in a direction it shouldn’t, clean the screen.
An overnight soak in a small amount of vinegar usually will remove the deposits. If it’s beyond cleaning, RV faucet filter screens are very low-cost to replace at your nearest hardware store.
In the case of the kitchen faucet above, the unit required more than a simple unscrewing of a cap. In this case, there was a tiny Allen bolt holding a longer mechanism, with the push button that selects between stream and spray.
Overall, it came down to the same basic setup. Ensure a tight fit on the washer and ensure the screens are cleaned. (For this faucet, there was one at the top and one as seen in the picture.)
If your rig is like our rig, you will get parked just to find that the occasional trim has fallen off the wall or ceiling. (For RV ceilings, trim is often used to cover seams in separate sheets of the particle board mentioned earlier.)
A lot of trim is simply stapled onto the surface it’s adhered to. In order to replace the trim, you’ll need to, ahem… “trim” those staples. You might be able to pull them out with pliers, but it might be easier to just cut them as low as you can. If the trim is from the ceiling, find short screws that are as close to the same color as the wood of the trim and only about 1/4 inch longer.
On your stepladder, screw the trim back in place. Watch your edges and corners to ensure you get the same alignment as it was in before it fell. If on a wall, depending on the surface behind it, you can use the same screws to remount them.
If you have a good, solid backing surface, you might be able to use paneling nails. These can come in brown and white. Be sure to trim the nail down to just that quarter of an inch extra length. You don’t want to hit a hidden wire or poke outside of the rig.
We hope some of these DIY motorhome repairs help you keep your rig in top shape. This list only scratches the surface of what you can repair on your own. Not only will you save time, money, and the hassle of dealing with a backed-up RV repair shop, but you’ll gain confidence with each repair you finish. That has been true for us, and we bet it’ll be true for you, too!
Make sure you keep track of all your RV maintenance and motorhome repairs with an online tool such as RV LIFE Maintenance. Not only can you keep all of your documents in one place, but you’ll also receive timely reminders when maintenance is due to help you avoid costly repairs and potentially serious accidents.
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Most RVs have a combination of power sources: Battery power, solar energy, and propane are some of the main options. Although batteries can take you a long way, you almost always need propane to power a few appliances and systems. That’s where propane accessories come in handy.
Propane is a fairly safe and stable fuel source. It acts quickly, and the fuel can last for a decent amount of time. If you want to make the most out of your RV resources, you’ll need a few propane accessories for safety and convenience. These products help to direct and regulate gas flow, as well as keep tanks stable.
In general, RVs already have basic propane systems in place, but you can always add extra features to improve their functionality. Below, we’ve gathered information about some of the best propane accessories. Just make sure you find a product that fits your vehicle specifications before you buy it!
One of the most important items for any RV is a propane/gas alarm. Fuel leaks are uncommon, but they can still happen. Manufacturers add a rotten-egg “smell agent” called mercaptan to help detect leaks because propane alone has no smell. Even then, propane can be very difficult to smell on its own, so you need an automated device that can detect it for you. A lot of propane alarms can also detect smoke, carbon monoxide, and other dangerous gases.
Plenty of RVs have these systems pre-installed, but you may want to upgrade to a more sophisticated model. Don’t forget to replace the batteries on a regular basis. You need to ensure that the monitor is active if you want it to do its job!
Some of the best alarm systems on the market include the Kidde Carbon Monoxide Detector and the Natural Gas Detector and Propane Detector from GasKnight. A good alarm system will usually cost between $30-$50, so they’re not too pricey.
Propane tanks are generally narrow at the top and bottom. This design makes it easy to connect them to your RV fuel lines, but it’s a nightmare when you try to balance your spare tanks. Ideally, propane tanks should be stored upright to minimize the risk of leaks. But when you drive, brake, swerve, and travel over bumpy roads, it’s easy for these tanks to fall over.
That’s where tank stabilizers come into play! These propane accessories attach to the bottom of tanks and give them a more stable base. The most common design is a tank “foot,” which connects to the base and props up the sides. When the tank’s weight is spread out over a wider footprint, it’s less likely to fall over.
Most bases are made from heavy-duty plastic, but they can also be made of rubber or metal. The bases can support weights between 20-40 lbs, so make sure you get a stabilizer that matches the size of your tank.
The Camco 57236 Cylinder Stabilizing Base is one of the most popular options, but the Mr. Heater TankFoot Tank Stabilizer is another good choice. These propane accessories are also quite cheap, usually coming in at around $15.
Again, tanks that are hooked up to your RV are usually pretty stable. You don’t have to worry about them shaking loose. However, your spare tanks can be a problem! Although bases/stabilizers are a great option, things can get tricky when you want to travel with multiple propane tanks at once.
In these situations, you may want to buy a tank rack. These can carry two or more tanks at once, plus they don’t take up much room. There are single-bottle products as well, but a rack is usually a better investment if you travel with backup tanks.
The Stromberg Carlson J Bottle Rack 2020-JR can hold a single tank, while the Flame King Propane Tank Rack can hold two 30-pound tanks at once.
These racks often include a base and some sort of locking mechanism. But if you want a bit of extra support, you could also buy a strap to limit movement. Heng’s 90032 Gas Bottle Strap is a good product for this purpose.
Propane tanks are hardy, but they can still be damaged by outside forces. If you want to give them a bit of extra protection, tank covers are worthwhile propane accessories. These come in all sorts of shapes, sizes, colors, and materials.
The most common type of tank cover is a simple fabric wrap. These are generally waterproof, breathable, and UV resistant. Some models can cover multiple tanks at once, such as the ADCO 2113 RV Propane Tank Cover. Others are only suitable for one tank at a time.
There are also some covers that can completely disguise your tank! Let’s be honest—these items may be useful, but they’re not exactly pretty to look at. That’s why options like the Bond Manufacturing Propane Tank Hideaway exist. This is a sturdy and attractive box that can completely cover a tank. In a pinch, it can even double as a seat or a side table.
There’s nothing worse than running out of fuel halfway through a cookout! It can sometimes be hard to tell when your propane is running low, especially because there’s no way to see through the solid metal tank. Fortunately, a fuel indicator can help you track how much propane you have at any given time.
A gas level indicator is one of the most helpful propane accessories. It attaches to the outside of the tank and can reflect the tank levels as the fuel inside is used up. It’s a safe and effective product that can ensure that you’ll have plenty of warning before your tank runs out.
Some of the most crucial propane accessories are hoses, adapters, and valves. These control the amount of gas that is released at any given time. They also direct it to where it needs to go. Unfortunately, there’s no one-size-fits-all answer for which of these options is best. It all depends on your tank size, your RV connections, and the purpose you need it for.
It’s best to consult with auto shop employees to find the best fit for your situation. However, you can usually rely on brands like Flame King and Marshall Excelsior for a range of helpful products.
Finally, there are all kinds of RV products that use propane as a fuel source! RV appliances are designed to be powerful yet compact. That’s why propane is such a popular choice.
Most of your RV appliances will come pre-installed, but there are also a few options you can buy to enhance your camping experience. Some of the best propane accessories and appliances include:
With these items, you can easily cook outdoors, start campfires, keep your RV warm without relying on the battery, and even operate a refrigerator! It might sound strange to power a refrigerator with propane, but it’s a common practice in RVs. After all, it needs some type of fuel in order to function.
There are countless products on the market for all of these devices. Shop around to find the ones that best suit your lifestyle.
One of the best parts about RVing is engaging with the community of traveling enthusiasts. iRV2 forums allow folks to chat with other RVers online, and get other perspectives on everything RVing, including products, destinations, RV mods, and more.
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Backing up a trailer without a spotter is actually pretty easy once you get the hang of it. However, it does take patience and practice to build your skills so you can confidently back your trailer by yourself. The best place to start practicing is in a big, open area, like an empty parking lot, where there isn’t any danger of actually hitting an object. The goal is just to get a feel for how your trailer handles when it’s being backed up in a safe environment where you can build confidence.
It’s really important to set up your mirrors correctly before you try to back your trailer anywhere. If you have a travel trailer or a fifth wheel this may mean adding towing mirrors to your existing mirror setup.
Rolling your driver’s side window down will allow you to look over your shoulder as you back your trailer. This will give you a much better view of where the trailer is going than a mirror would, allowing you to make any necessary adjustments as soon as you need to.
When you’re new to backing up your trailer, it’s usually easiest to back into a campsite on the driver’s side.
Once you’ve picked out a campsite, you’ll want to get out and do a quick survey of the campground. Take note of the location of obstacles like overhead branches, trees, picnic tables, and fire pits. Get out and look anytime you need to reassure yourself that the trailer’s not going to hit anything. It’s better to check too often than have to deal with damage to a tail light or wall.
Now is a great time to mark the trailer’s pivot point with a traffic cone (or other marker) on the campsite driveway. If you are backing your trailer into a driver’s side campsite, you’ll place your traffic cone about a foot in from the right front corner of the driveway. If you don’t happen to have a traffic cone handy, you can always just use whatever is handy. After your first three successful sessions of solo backing, you’ll probably be able to “wing it” without using a marker.
You might notice that other campers openly stare while you’re backing your trailer into a campsite. Once in a while, someone might even offer to help. If you’ve been practicing your backing skills in an empty parking lot, you won’t need any help. Instead, you can graciously instruct them “Please just stay where I can see you and let me know if I’m going to hit something.” This way you’ll get to focus completely on backing your trailer while they get to feel like they did something constructive with their day.
At some point in your trailer-backing career, you’re going to accept the fact that watching someone back a trailer into a campsite is sometimes the best entertainment in the campground. What you do with this knowledge is up to you.
Your goal here is to align the passenger side of the tow vehicle and trailer about a foot from the edge of the road until the front axle of the trailer is in line with the traffic cone that you placed in the previous step.
Want to avoid doing mental gymnastics when you back your trailer? Having your hands on the bottom half of the steering wheel allows you to turn it in the direction you want the trailer to go. It’s so much easier than having your hands on the top half of the steering wheel and turning it the opposite way you want the trailer to go.
Try having your left hand at “8” and your right hand at “4”. (You can thank me later!)
Turn your front wheels to the right and pull forward. This will get your trailer headed into the approximate direction of the campsite you’re backing into. You’ll need to adjust the angle of the trailer from here.
Turn your steering wheel counterclockwise and back up a few feet as you watch over your shoulder or in your driver’s side mirror. With your hands at the bottom of your steering wheel, turn it in the direction you want the trailer to go. At this point, you’ll want to make subtle adjustments to your steering to get the trailer pointed right into the spot you chose in your walkaround. After this point, your tow vehicle will be following the trailer, more or less. Beware of oversteering.
Now is a good time to get out and walk around the back of the trailer to double-check and make sure you aren’t going to back into a firepit, picnic table, branch, or other object that could potentially damage your RV. Because it’s always better to double-check and be safe than it is to explain how you damaged your beautiful RV to an insurance claims agent.
While you’re out looking for obstacles to avoid, pick up the traffic cone you set. Place it where you want the rear driver’s side of the trailer to wind up. If you have a bike rack on the back of your trailer, you’ll want to allow room for it.
Backing up a trailer solo may seem like a daunting task at first, but with the right techniques and plenty of practice, you’ll soon become a pro. Remember, the key to successful trailer backing is preparation and focus. From setting your mirrors correctly to choosing the right campsite and using markers, each step is crucial in ensuring a smooth and safe process.
Don’t let the stares of other campers distract you; instead, use it as an opportunity to showcase your newly acquired skills. And always, always double-check for obstacles before making that final push into your campsite. With these tips in hand, you’re not just backing up a trailer; you’re backing it up with confidence and precision. So go ahead, take that solo camping trip you’ve been dreaming of—now you’re more than ready for it.
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RVs and motorhomes are the perfect candidates for solar electricity. Not only is solar more eco-friendly and less polluting than gas generators, but it's much quieter. Anyone who's ever hunkered down in an RV campground only to be kept awake by the droning rumble of their neighbors' gas generators knows this for fact.
Thus, installing solar panels on your RV is a fantastic idea. Of course, it can be a somewhat pricey initial investment, even with the recent decline in costs of solar power. Our article on what to know before installing solar panels on your RV explains how it's an affordable endeavor, but not a cheap one. There are also expenses like hardware, installation costs, and even possible retrofitting of your RV to accommodate the new hookup. The first question, however, is how many solar panels you'll actually need.
The question is simple, while the answer is a bit complicated. As you might expect, not every RVer requires the same amount. Factors like sun exposure, personal energy consumption, solar panel model size and capacity, energy storage options, and mounting hardware will determine the number of panels you'll need.
But coming up with an estimate doesn't have to be overwhelming. Here, we've broken down the steps into a straightforward guide to help you get an idea of how many solar panels you'll need to power your RV. This uses many of the same principles as our guide on calculating how many solar panels are needed to power a tiny home, though there are some key differences that we'll go over.
Step 1: Estimate how much solar energy you need per day
Before determining how many solar panels you need, you'll first have to estimate how much daily energy you typically use.
To get an estimate, you can add up the daily power consumption of your RV's major appliances. Make a list of all the electronics in your RV. Then, label each with their indicated wattage. Many common appliances, like refrigerators and televisions, are stamped with their wattage on their back panels.
If a device isn't labeled, you can search its model online to find it. You can also search the web for a common wattage of that particular appliance, or refer to the common wattages list provided by EcoFlow. Some devices indicate their voltage and amperage instead, but you can simply multiply the two to get the wattage.
Once you have a list of your appliances and their wattages, estimate how many hours per day you use each. Then, multiply each appliance's wattage by the hours per day you use it, and add everything up. This will provide your total Watt-hours per day you need.
For example, let's say you have a 100W television running 2 hours per day, a 60W refrigerator running 24 hours per day, and a 400W space heater running for 1 hour per day. To find the total, multiply each device's wattage by its daily usage and add everything up.
(100W television) x (2hr/day) = 200Wh/day
(60W refrigerator) x (24hr/day) = 1,440Wh/day
(400W space heater) x (1hr/day) = 800Wh/day
Total Wh/day = (200Wh/day) + (1,040Wh/day) + (800Wh/day) = 2,040Wh/day
This is an example, so you'll likely have more appliances to include. Whatever number you come up with, write it down to keep it on hand for the next steps.
Step 2: Decide what kind of solar panels you'll use
Solar panels have different output ratings, depending on the model. Some are smaller and more efficient, like monocrystalline panels, but they typically cost more. Cheaper options, like polycrystalline panels, are usually less energy- and space-efficient. The third type, thin-film flexible panels, offers easy installation, though they don't last very long –- they're also the least efficient.
Thus, if the available roof space on your RV is limited, you may have to go with monocrystalline panels to make the most of their space-efficiency. You can compare the different model sizes prices, and output ratings on merchants' websites. You can also check out the 5 best solar panels for RVs to see which one works for you. If you can't decide just yet, consider applying the following calculation to each type to see what the final price and space occupancy comes to.
For our calculation, you'll need to find the power output rating of your panel-of-choice. Typically, these range between 100W and 400W. This number indicates the watts the panel can generate in an hour during peak sunlight exposure. When you have a solar panel in mind, write down its power output rating.
Step 3: Estimate the daily solar potential of your area
Now that you have the output rating of your solar panel, you'll have to estimate how many hours of sunlight it will receive per day. To get this number, we recommend looking up your area's solar exposure using either Unbound Solar or Google Project Sunroof.
Of course, in an RV, you'll be moving around, so the daily sunlight will vary depending on your location. To counter this variability, you can map out your travel plans and look up the daily solar exposure of each location. Then, use the daily sunlight exposure of whichever area has the least amount of exposure. That way, you'll have enough solar power in every scenario.
For example, let's say you're traveling from Atlanta, Georgia to Acadia National Park in Maine. Along the way, you intend to stop in Charlotte, Harrisburg, and Hartford. Looking these cities up on Google Project Sunroof, we get the following daily average sunlight exposure:
Atlanta, GA: 4.3hr
Charlotte, NC: 4.1hr
Harrisburg, PA: 3.9hr
Hartford, CT: 4.0hr
Acadia National Park, ME: 3.7hr
Thus, you should use Acadia National Park's daily sunlight exposure for the calculation, since it's the least amount. Keep in mind, however, that this value is for your estimate. The idea that solar panels can't generate energy when it's cloudy is one of the common myths about solar panels.
Note: Google Project Sunroof provides the annual hours of sun exposure, so we divided each location's annual sun exposure by 365 to get a daily average.
Step 4: Calculate how many solar panels you'll need
At this point, you should have an estimate of your daily power consumption, your solar panel's energy output rating, and the average hours of daily sun exposure you'll receive. Now, calculating how many solar panels it will take to power your RV is as simple as plugging in the numbers.
(Solar panel energy output rating) x (Daily solar potential in hours) = Daily power generation of one panel
(Daily power consumption) / (Daily power generation of one panel) = Number of solar panels you'll need
Here's an example. Let's say your solar-panel-of-choice's output rating is 300W. Your destination, Acadia National Park, receives an average of 3.7 hours of peak sunlight a day. Your daily power consumption in your RV is about 4,000W. Plugging in the numbers to the above formula, we get the following:
(300W) x (3.7h) = 1,110Wh
(4,000W) / (1,110Wh) = 3.6 ≈ 4
Thus, you would need four 300W solar panels to power your RV.
The final consideration: Battery storage
Without batteries to store the electricity your solar panels generate, you'll only have power while the sun is shining. Furthermore, batteries for solar energy storage are often part of larger battery "bank" systems, which regulate the flow of electricity to avoid frying your electronics. (They're sometimes called "Battery Management Systems" and "charge controllers.") Thus, these systems not only provide energy storage, but they also add greater control and security to your setup.
Fortunately, battery technology is rapidly improving these days, and prices are dropping as a result. The five top brands for deep cycle RV batteries often offer complete solar kits with batteries and charge controllers included. Better yet, most solar power batteries list their storage capacity in watts, making your daily power consumption value calculated in Step 1 useful yet again. For example, you can compare the different AM Solar models and their various capacities to get an idea of how many batteries you'll need to meet your daily power consumption needs.